Leona Struts the Streets of New York

Having just returned from Antarctica, Leona eggschanged her parka and boots for the fashionable camel coat and little black dress that carried her through many venues in NYC. Our ultimate free range chicken enjoyed her first class seat to the Big Apple.

There she booked into a hotel conveniently situated near Central Park. Walking everywhere for four days, she really eggsperienced the city with all the Christmas lights and festive decorations.

The animated scenes from the Lord and Taylor windows stimulated her wanderlust. She dreamt of all the places she has not yet visited. Patiently I explained that she couldn’t go back in time, that some of the scenes were of past centuries and couldn’t be visited outside of Hollywood. Sigh!

Clucking constantly she befriended many people, leaving her wondering why New Yorkers had reputations as cranky and difficult. Everyone she met was helpful and friendly. Maybe it’s just that birds of a feather flock together – Leona never met an unfriendly person.

Returning to the Neue Gallery where Barbara and her sister, Nancy, first imagined creating Leona, she enjoyed an authentic Austrian dinner while watching New Yorkers walk their dogs through Central Park. Not outdoing Leona, every dog had on a very special outfit.

Thanks Leona for a fun time in New York!
Maureen

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Leona falters with shaky sea-chicken legs

 “I usually eat chicken,” the Captain said with a smirk. Leona tried to grasp foggy filaments of the children’s fable, “Little Red Riding Hood.” Along with the other hundred passengers, her chicken legs were weak with seasickness and her mind was not sharp. Out of her element, but full of curiosity she agreed to go on a 3-week adventure to Antarctica with friends, Bob Kropfi and Diane Vliem.

The trip leaders of Zegrahm, a reputable tour company, said that this was “nothin’.” But 20 foot waves, 40 knot winds and losing an engine seemed all but normal. Leona took comfort in Leonardo da Vinci’s edict, Sfumato – embracing the unknown and riding the wave of uncertainty. Literally “riding the waves”, Sfumato became Leona’s mantra throughout the trip.

Bob reports from the bowels of the ship:

“Greetings from the Scotia Sea. After a day and a half of rough weather (Beaufort 9 for you sea buffs) with 20 ft waves and 40 kt winds. It was rough. We walk around like drunken sailors although we haven’t even cracked the Glenmorangie yet. (Leona: They also lost sets of dishes crashing to the floor and people with broken bones!) The ship came in one day late because of very heavy weather on their way down from Rio. However our resourceful trip leaders found lodging for us in Stanley on the Falklands and we stayed overnight with a wonderful couple. They couldn’t have been nicer. So tomorrow the real trip starts as we get onto South Georgia where Shackleton started and ended his incredible journey. It’s a wild place and we’ll be there 3 days. I’m finding that this typing may be taking its toll on me – feeling just a little woozy looking at the screen. I have been feeling fine until now. Diane and Leona are recovering from a bit of sea sickness but they seem better now. Later…Bob”

Sfumato… Sfumato… Sfumato… I feel if I survive this journey, I will write about it. People will know more about this body of ice (one and a half times the size of the U.S., including Alaska!) and her fauna and flora.

The other burning question is: What is the magnet for people to come from all corners of the earth and to dedicate three weeks and spend the equivalent of buying a car to get seasick, mingle with penguins and freeze in zodiacs ? This, I’m determined to find out.

More from Bob:

“Well, yes. This has been a most eventful trip. First, it should now be obvious that we were not on the Explorer that went down a week and a half ago. We went right by the site where it happened and Zegrahm staff knew the ship very well. They have conducted expeditions from her and affectionately referred to her as ‘the little red ship.’ (Leona: Little scary since the hole was the size of a fist!) Weather from the start has been rotten – starting with 30 to 40 kt winds heading down to South Georgia, 20 ft waves, snow on the decks, wild zodiac boat rides and on and on.

We lost one of our two engines… The crank shaft broke apart and our speed through the water is now down to about 8 kts, considerably slower than our typical biking speed. So it’ll take three days to cross the Drake rather than two. That’s where we are now – heading back to Ushuaia where we’ll catch a plane for Buenos Aires on Tuesday.

So many incredible experiences. We saw and approached within a few hundred feet of an enormous iceberg – 30 miles by 9 miles. It’s designated B15D, and I think you can Google it for more info on it. It’s easily recognizable from space. They said it came off of the Ross Ice Shelf on the other side of the continent but I’m a bit skeptical about that. Google will tell the story on that. The huge berg came as a complete surprise to the staff here and even they were impressed.

Weather finally did clear and we saw just about everything possible in incredible light. And the penguins! I wanted to bring one home to play with Buster and Cleo (their beloved cats) but was talked out of it. Diane and I are very impressed with our fellow passengers. Most of them are really old – even older than me, if you can believe that – but they have a wonderful go-for-it attitude and every one of our landings had a huge turnout. I would hate to have been part of this group when they were 20 years younger – it would have been difficult to keep up. We crammed four or five days into three. We expect to sleep a lot from here to the end. More later………..Bob”

Some facts: don’t feel sorry for the penguins – their body temperature is 101 degrees Fahrenheit! Eighty percent of their insulating properties come from their feathers with the remaining 20% from body fat! If only I knew this while watching “March of the Penguins” three years ago, I would have saved tears and anguish while witnessing them huddling in the cold balancing eggs and making wind-torn strides to the sea.

And, they don’t fly in the air (I can barely), but they “fly” underwater – at the speeds of 15 mph and 300 feet deep! This keeps the predators on their toes and is much safer than me strutting around in the chicken coop! Oh, if I had 80% feathers, do you think people would want to eat me?! I don’t think so!

The mystery still looms as to why human beings venture into such harsh climates with an internal temperature of 98.6 f and no feathers. Now that I have seen this stark and desolate place on earth, I believe the reason is two-fold:

One – it’s there and we’re curious beings. We are able to visit this wild part of the world. Thanks to Shackleton, mapping and weather technology and good tour companies, we can be a part of a still small number of people to waddle with the penguins.

Two – There’s something raw, mysterious, (should I say it?) even spiritual about a place like this. It’s Nature at its finest. At first glance, you don’t think anything can survive. Then, your observation skills become sharpened – there are algae, mosses, lichens and, sounding like an oxymoron – pearlworts. The Emperor and Ade’lie penguins are fascinating and curious (see the photo album below of them gathering around me – the new kid on the block!).

Ralph Waldo Emerson spent a life-time experiencing and articulating the huge topic of nature. For him, it wasn’t, “see one lichen – you’ve seen them all.” He felt that the power and beauty of nature are beyond explanation (but of course, if anyone should expound, it should be a poet who is the best observer – “he whose eye can integrate all the parts.”). He believed “that there is no end in nature, but every end is a beginning.” Emerson 296

To learn more on this topic, see Sara Sugerman’s award-winning paper, “Universal Beauty, Natural Sovereignty, and the “Oversoul.”

Perhaps this is the reason we love being in nature – it’s a momentary blanket of immortality – like a mother’s snuggle or a mama hen’s cuddle…

Leonardo also believed that one must “experience” life intimately to know the “truth.” But proving nature seemed illusive, even to Leonardo. He said, “Nature is full of infinite causes that experience has never demonstrated.” What he meant was that we cannot fully understand nature – that it exists in all of its beauty and awe. When Leonardo was dumbfounded by the mysteries of nature he put aside his scientific tools and pick up his paintbrush.

Diane and Bob didn’t pick up paintbrushes, but they did pick up their cameras. See the great pictures!

See photo album

 

 

The Nose, Knows…

Lassie has some competition. Rocco is now the star for searching and retrieving. In a small village close to Pisa, Italy, Rocco sniffed a giant white truffle weighing in at 3.3 pounds – a new Guinness World Record.

You may ask, “How does finding an ugly fungus compare with Lassie finding his master down a well, or dragging a little boy from a fire?” Well, this giant truffle was just auctioned off and the winning bid went to billionaire Stanley Ho for $330,000! (Also a record.) The proceeds from the auction were slated to help people with genetic diseases, street children in London and Catholic charities. That’s helping a lot of people for one glorious moment of mucking in the mud!

This led me to learn about how truffles are found. It’s in the nose. But, depending on the country, depends on what nose! In France, they use pigs. The only problem is that the pigs love to eat the truffle after they find it and is rewarded by being beaten by a stick!

In Italy, they use dogs to find truffles by first training the dog to locate a ball, then they use Gorgonzola cheese, then the real thing – a piece of truffle. Fortunately, the dogs’ palates lean toward dog treats rather than truffles.

Ah… what we do to add a little spice to our lives…

Leona in Antarctica

Leona is on the ship Clipper Adventurer with Da Vinci Capers friends Bob and Diane on her first Antarctic Cruise. She is currently exploring South Georgia Island (webcam) following (in reverse) the historic voyage of Ernest Shackleton. Her itinerary will take her to Elephant Island, then along the Antarctic Peninsula before returning to Ushuaia, Argentina. I hope she has her sea legs – it looks like she will be seeing some big waves over the next couple of days!

Musicophilia: Tales of Music and the Brain

Musicophilia: Tales of Music and the Brain – Oliver Sacks – Book Review – New York Times

I just read this review in today’s New York Times and thought I’d share it with you. I want to understand the reason music can lift a mood immediately, make you cry unexpectedly, and raise you to your feet to dance. Perhaps this book will scratch the surface to my questions.

I know that hearing music is more than just entertainment – just one note can spin you back to moments that span a life-time – to your first dance, hearing the Temptations on a winter night in a coffee shop in Baltimore, or sitting in a parking lot listening for the first time The Three Tenors and crying like a baby! How does this happen?! Just one note!

Music experiences can changed your whole course in life. When I was in second grade, I remember the class walking hand-in-hand down to the Old Glen Theater to see my first movie, The Wizard of Oz. From that day, you could hear (off key) “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” being sung was all seriousness. Then, this infatuation moved into other arts – I sketched Judy Garland in crayon, pencil and charcoal until I knew every line, every shadow by memory. This led to studying art at the university and dabbling in violin (a disaster!). The love of one song in one movie penetrated and affected my whole family! I later learned that my grandmother had a love affair with Jack Haley, the Tin Man! (So secret, that I didn’t even get an autograph!)

And now, as the years fly by, I don’t even recognize the name of the pop groups – no less being able to recite their songs. We move fast, cull what enters into our senses, stay energized learning and grateful that we can. Check out this latest book!

Chaos in Composing!

Friday ~ The Art of Listening – A Musical Discovery
“Be thinking of what experience during the week affects you most. We’ll pull together stories and our favorite moments to create a Da Vinci Capers’ composition!” Barbara, Founder of Da Vinci Capers, announces on the first day. Now, I don’t know much about composing music, but I thought this might be the most ambitious activity of the week!

But, then again… Richard Wagner was ambitious when he visited Ravello and was inspired to write Parsifal, his last and greatest opera performed in 1882. Wagner changed the face of Ravello – the city has since been named, The City of Music. He was about our age, breathing the same air, seeing the same views… Perhaps surrounded by this creative spirit, we can write a little ditty…

We gather in the Living Lounge of the Hotel Caruso, a beautiful, five-star luxury hotel sitting at the very top of Ravello overlooking the sea and two small villages, Minori and Maiori. Frescoes don the ceilings, crystal chandeliers hang 15 feet above, tall draped windows allow the fresh air to gently wave the scent of lilies. A polished baby grand piano sits in one corner and overstuffed chairs and settees are in small groups. We are suddenly transported back in time to a gilded music parlor of the 19^th century.

Fabrizio Soprano arrives. He has jet black hair and wears jeans and a jacket and tie. Fabrizio lives in Naples, and the first time we met, he wore a black cloak looking very Bohemian – so the tie surprises me, I’m sure to add a professional flair. He is a concert pianist, Artistic Director for the month-long Amalfi Coast Music and Arts Festival, a composer, and a jazz aficionado. His credentials are long and he’s a serious musician; so when he tells the story of being in Manhattan and a sales clerk from Tower Records thought he was the Mr. Soprano and showered him with gifts, we all laugh and relax. No, if anyone can pull this off, Fabrizio can!

We start by hearing a combination of Fabrizio’s playing and a recording of Franz Liszt – his famous, Mephisto Waltz No. 1 – The Dance in the Village Inn (1859-62). A Romantic composer and inventor of the principle of “free form,” Liszt took an episode from Faust, written by Nikolaus Lenau. It’s an amorous story about Mephisto entering an inn where a wedding party is taking place. He picks up the fiddle and plays an intoxicating waltz theme. Faust takes full advantage of this moment and dances and woos the beautiful bride then elopes into the woods. Liszt builds the music until the couple is “swallowed up by the impetuous waves of amorous rapture” (N.Lenau).

Fabrizio uses this example of how music can be inspired by literature. He picks it apart so we can understand how Wagner wrote the measures following the story (Wagner dedicated his composition to Lenau, who died young). Compositions can also be inspired by other arts, such as painting – Mussorgsky’s “Pictures at an Exhibition.” By now, we are starting to understand that feelings (such as, eroticism, sadness, passion, mystery, etc.) are the inspirations of a composition.

Now the big challenge is how can sixteen people who have a mixture of musical experiences create one composition? We have a professional jazz pianist and two other serious musicians. The rest of us love to listen to a variety of music and attend concerts, but have not seriously studied an instrument or even taken a music appreciation course in college.

This didn’t stop us! We had strong opinions that became louder with increased enthusiasm to meet this challenge. Jan and I were on the same page – start with a lightness, have some romantic music, sprinkle in the hilarity of the language day, add a promenade of the photo workshop, add motifs of Italian music… (sounds more like a recipe!) Judy, the professional, said, “We need to start in a minor chord…” We all look at each other quizzically. You could tell David was waiting for this day – he was prepared and already downloaded examples on his I-Pod as a jumping point. The Rickster doesn’t want to leave out the possibility of Pompeii erupting again and Maura feels we should include sounds of the pazzo Italian drivers.

There is mayhem! The interactions are fever-pitched. Dale feels empathy for Fabrizio and decides to go next door to the bar and orders a $36 brandy. Judy thinks Fabrizio will have a stroke, while Barbara keeps saying , “let’s just give Fabrizio the emotions and let him put it to music…and, by the way, I love Mussorgsky’s passagiata – can we use something like this to tie the days together?!”

While we are voicing our opinions, Fabrizio is quietly jotting notes on a staff, and writing the words that are flying around. He then announces that he will write a piece using the first few measures that everyone has agreed upon. We all know that this was an exercise of trial and error and one that we’ll all remember! On the plus side, we now have a better understanding and appreciation of how music is created, we are more familiar with Liszt and Mussorgsky, and we had the gift of hearing Fabrizio play!

After a rest, we gather for our farewell party in the Hotel Caruso with the musical entertainment of the famous Neapolitan folk music and dance the Tarantella! A perfect ending to an incredible week!

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Visiting a Virginia Farm

Leona woke up this morning in anticipation of her new adventures on the farm. She marveled at the beauty of the scenic Blue Ridge mountains and became excited about what she would see and do here. Virginia was having a cold spell, so she was glad that she brought her cowgirl hat and jacket with her. She was also happy to be in the wide open fields and rolling green hills. She felt right at home.

After breakfast, she was introduced to everyone. She immediately established a rapport with the animals – Cow 36, White Horse and Farm Cat. Then there were the carpenters, the farrier, the equestrian rider, and machine operators. This was a busy place!

She loved riding “Orange 36″ cow! A most exhilarating experience, Leona knew that this cow was very special and exceptionally friendly to allow her to ride on her back. The horses enjoyed meeting Leona, too.  They smelled, touched and studied her. They asked her about her Italian heritage and she was quite responsive. They enjoyed giving her a ride. Leona was very impressed – so high up! “I feel as though I am flying!”, she squealed. Then, the horses invited her to meet their buddies on the farm across the road. What she saw there amazed her.

There was a horse wearing a mask and a coat, and a man wearing a leather skirt who was bending over the horse’s foot. This was quite a sight for Leona and she asked for an explanation. We told her that it was a show horse and the coat prevents growth of a heavy fur coat in the winter. Such a coat would detract from its beauty during shows. Leona said she wondered how horses keep warm without feathers.

The man in the leather skirt, trained as a farrier, was adjusting the horse’s hooves and applying new shoes to them. Leona didn’t understand why horses would want their feet trimmed; she wouldn’t think of trimming hers!

She wanted to ask a little girl to let her ride on her horse, but she was too bashful. The girl eventually invited Leona to get on with her, but she couldn’t quite decide if she wanted to ride on the front or the back!

When we returned to the house, she ran into Farm Cat. She told her all the adventures she had during the day. She learned about show horses, rode a cow, two horses, tractors and even learned how to survey land! She had enough excitement for one day and was ready for dinner and a soft bed. She really likes Virginians and the farm, and didn’t want to leave in the morning. But she must fly home, repack and prepare for her next adventure – three weeks journey in Antarctica!

From our farm to your home, thanks for the experience~

Joyce and Ken

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Boyds Bear Country and Abe Lincoln in Gettysburg

It’s been quite a time for Leona – poor thing she is just worn out from all the socializing! Yesterday, she went trick-or-treating with her friends, Giorgio and Ruby. And, today we were up early and left for Boyds Bear Country in Gettysburg, PA. Ruby joined her, but Giorgio had his garden to take of so he had to wait to hear all of their stories. What a party as I’m sure you can see by the pictures, Leona was just the center of attention. It’s not often that bears get to party with an Italian chicken!

When we first arrived, there was a lot of excitement because someone had stolen Bailey Bear’s honey jar from the kitchen. As you can imagine, he was frantic. We had to help him collect clues and finally we found HC Beezly in a tree with the honey. Bailey was so relieved and then the party began. Everyone wanted to meet Leona and Ruby.

Leona was telling everyone about her upcoming trip to Antarctica and suddenly Jolly T Jodibear welled up in tears. She told Leona that one of her life-long dreams has been to go to Antarctica and plant the American flag. She begged Leona and finally Leona agreed that she should follow her dreams. So she will be accompanying Leona on her trip, but wants to make sure that she can come home after the trip.

Thrilled at the prospect of the trip, Jolly ran upstairs and got into her coat and grabbed her flag. She also told Leona to pick out some sweaters and pants so that she won’t be cold. So, Leona’s wardrobe has grown once again!

Although it was hard to drag her away from the party, especially the slightly-hard apple cider, Leona had an appointment with her old friend Abe Lincoln. Standing in the square in Gettysburg, Abe and Leona recalled memories and Abe showed Leona the house where he stayed before his big address.

Leona commented that it looked rather small for such a tall man. They laughed and laughed… After that, we drove home and Leona sighed as she took in the scenery. The leaves were all red, gold and orange and it reminded her of the hills of Tuscany.

So tonight, we are getting Leona packed and enjoying our last glass of wine. Although not very exotic, it has been a wonderful weekend, and one that she will always remember – spending time with old friends and meeting new friends.

It has been a pleasure and she is welcome back anytime. Ruby and Giorgio are sad to see her go and will miss her terribly. But, we all look forward to hearing about Leona’s and Jolly’s adventures in Antarctica!

Thanks~ Sue

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Break the Rules!

Thursday ~ Taking Spectacular Photos

After breakfast, we walk into the next room to meet with Massimo Bassano. Massimo is one of Italy’s top travel photo-journalist. His words and photos appear regularly in magazines around the world.

Some participants are already familiar with Massimo and we all are anxious for this day of photography. A slight man with a huge smile, we take a liking to him immediately. We start by looking at some of his photos and analyzing what makes a good picture and what can destroy one. He’s very honest – no glossing over (including his own work)… we’re here to learn!

Light – I always heard: sun to your back. Today, we are told, “Shoot in the shade. The colors are very rich and not hazy.” Then, he added, “Turn the camera to WB, white balance.”

Shooting people – “Emotion-driven, that human feeling”, this is our goal for the day. Look for people and relationships. Can we read their minds? Seek expressions – see their “character.” And, whatever you do – don’t be lazy! If it means we need to walk up and around or down… experiment!

Shooting landscapes – use telephoto lens and shoot early in the morning or at twilight. “It’s a nightmare!” This is an expression which he loves to use with a big grin. “You may not get many hours of sleep!” continues Massimo, “but, this is the only way to shoot a great landscape.”

Questions are raised about compositions. “I’m a maniac for shooting horizontal. We see horizontal!” Maniac! (Another word Massimo loves to use!) His English is excellent. We could just stay and listen to him talk; but, this is Da Vinci Capers! We are not in a lecture, we are a doing adventure.

Massimo gathers his digital cameras, his 35 mm camera and 50, 95 and 135 mm zoom lens, tripods… He looks like a donkey with packs draping over each shoulder and on his back. He smiles widely, “We are maniacs for best quality.” First, a short drive to Amalfi.

As the mini-van shifts from side-to-side down the mountain, we’re still asking questions. “Where do I find WB?” Suddenly, cameras are being passed back and forth getting them ready for the walking workshop in Amalfi. “Turn off the pop-up flashes!” This is not a “how to turn on your camera” workshop, but there are some of us that need a little help on basics.

Those who want to just play with their camera, take off in Amalfi. Those who want side-by-side instruction, stick with Massimo. I’m soaking up every word so I stay with Massimo. He loves his wide angle to shoot close-up and when there’s a relationship between location and people.

Then the rules are broken. I hear it as clear as a bell, “Don’t worry about ‘framing.’ Use this mostly for architectural shots. But, for people – non preoccupato!” Don’t worry! I remember seeing in his presentation feet were cut off, even part of a head to get the expression, the character – the emotion of the photo. All of a sudden, I’m set free – no longer boxed in with putting something in the foreground, framing a tree on one side, or making sure I have a whole body including the feet. I want to spread my wings and just fly!

Hearts start to flutter when the men see Ms. Janet, the knock-dead beautiful representative from the Hotel Caruso, on the wharf to help us board of their boat “Ercole.” I decided then and there that I was going to lose a few pounds and practice my wiggle in stilettos!

It’s a prefect day – our cheeks warmed by the sun, blue sky, crystal water as we chug along the coast an hour toward Positano – a vertical village known for its mosaic domed church, chic shops cradled in a valley resting on a blanket of white sand.

“Hard to get great shots from the water – everything looks flat, gray and huge. It actually can be rather boring. To see the blue water, you need to be above,” Massimo speaks above the soft murmur of the engines.

We arrive and the die-hards stick with Massimo and the shoppers take off another direction. He’s like Leonardo da Vinci with his observation skills. He grabs opportunities as he sees them. A group of men playing cards are around a small square table near the beach. Others hang around and add their opinions. Colorful clothes and towels are hanging opposite them from a line high above. There’s lots of action: laughing, exclamations of disbelief, challenges being made while cigarettes dangle… Massimo gently steps forward and asks if he could take their picture. Of course!! (Maybe we’ll see this in the next National Geographic Traveler!)

Suddenly, I feel like I am in Velazquez’s painting, “Las Meninas” – I am shooting a photo of someone taking a photo of someone painting on the beach who was painting someone walking on the beach… we are surrounded by art, beautiful colors, perfect weather. I want to freeze this moment.

But, alas we have to board the boat and return to Amalfi. A little way down the coast, we decide that the water is just too good to pass up, so we put on our bathing suites and jump in. This was my first time swimming, so I was nervous. Immediately, I recalled the side-stroke my mother taught me as a pullet (this must be equivalent to the dog-paddle for dogs). My splash was so hard, that I lost my tail feathers! Proud and bare butt, for me, this was the most challenging and rewarding experience so far! Sfumato!!!

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Please don’t throw me in the soup!

Tuesday ~ Sensazione – Paying Attention to our Senses
Later in the afternoon, we return to the villa for our cooking lesson. I have my personal expression memorized: Non buttarme nella zuppa per favore! (“Please don’t throw me into the soup!”) This was a bit of paranoia since I’m not your ordinary chicken. The Ancona chicken is Italy’s most beautiful chicken. A verifiable Sofia Loren with beautiful black plumage tipped with silver, a rose-color comb and plump breasts. No, we are for show – not for stew.

Still, peering through the canvas Whole Foods shopping bag makes me uneasy. I manage to wiggle out and join the small group of cooks. Professor Falcone appears, the esteemed Chef of Villa Maria and culinary historian. Dressed in a white chef’s coat with assistants in tote, we all head to their organic garden.

We pick tomatoes, peppers, pumpkins and squash. In one corner, I see a chicken coop with Italian Galline. I sit on the fence and have a little chit-chat. Golden in color, they have very long slender necks. Despite a weird waddle, they are beautiful and remind me of an elegant Modigliani painting. Ahhh…this is what Italy is about – slowing down, letting the sun warm your back while you make new friends.

Meanwhile, everyone is having fun – tasting raw hot peppers and tomatoes off the vine, balancing baskets on the head and our feet on dirt paths. With our bounty we head for the kitchen at Villa Eva.

Now, I’ve been to cooking schools in Lucca, Liguria, Paris, Manhattan and Colorado. Here, in Ravello, we don’t have our own stations and set of knives, but it is hands-on and we learn a ton.

We start with a light squid antipasto, followed by an ancient recipe – Ndunderi – from Virgil. This recipe won Professor Falcone a prize in Italy. (I don’t understand how it’s taken over 2,000 years for this recipe to come to light!) It resembles gnocchi but made with ricotta cheese and served with a porcini mushroom sauce (like Virgil’s poetry, it seems a little heavy to me). The filleted monkfish in a fresh tomato sauce is exquisite and the vegetable of eggplant with local buffala mozzarella and basil is light and flavorful. And, the dessert of lemon puffs is to die for.

Some of the things we learn:

• Oil is Felice - happy, when it is shimmering and ready to fry quickly. Add more oil if it becomes too happy (too hot) in order to cool it down
• Don’t have water to wash hands? Use flour! (Then throw it away, of course!)
• Oregano and Rosemary – never together; Oregano and Basil – happy together
• Add parmigiano “far from the fire” and all the problems of the world disappear!
• Always put parsley in warm oil, and basil at the very end
• Use only one hand to dip in egg, and the other to dip in bread crumbs
• Monk fish thinly filleted is much tastier than the fat hunks (and prettier)
• Extra virgin oil should not go above 180 degrees
• Never put oil over salt (it will attach to itself and not dissolve)
• Use lemon juice to liquefy salt – wait 2 minutes
• Where does extra virgin olive oil come from? Ugly olives! (Thanks, Maura!)
• Use a cheese grater to make bread crumbs and potato peeler for celery
• Look with your eyes – always pay attention!
• When you make pasta dough – kneed it to look and feel “like a baby’s bottom!”
• Thomas Jefferson loved pasta so much, that he hid a pasta maker in his pants when he left Naples for the United States! “Wow! Thank you, Mr. President!”
• I never had to use: “Non buttarme nella zuppa, per favore!”

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