The sun just rose casting a warm glow on the window pane of Patisserie Mulot’s pastry shop. I see the reflection of people moving in both directions – probably heading for work. I can hear the clicking of high heels on the pavement and an occasional, Bonjour! What laid before me looked like a table set for a king. Already, there were shelves of tarts topped with slivers of almonds, cakes flowing with pastry cream topped with berries and perky puffy meringues… Then, I saw it. A large rectangle of creamy clafouti with little jewel-like cherries poking through - not too sweet, a cake-custard with tart cherries!
I position myself in the line that was already forming. My French is rusty, but managed to say, Je voudrais celle-ci. It worked! They carefully place it on a piece of paper, folded and tied with a ribbon. Off I go to my little apartment on the Seine to enjoy my morning treat.
I remember having a similar clafouti in Tuscany. It did not have a crust and was not as rich. Thanks to Beverly and Chef Valter (Da Vinci Capers’ Chef) for the recipe below:
Cherry Clafouti (Serves 6)
Halfway between custard and cake, this traditional dessert will bring the French countryside to your table with its subtle richness. Sour cherries peep out of the easy, eggy batter. We have removed the pits, but if you want to do things the French way (more flavor and to save time), leave them in place and simply serve the clafouti with a warning.
1 1/4 pounds fresh sour cherries, pitted, or 1 pound frozen sour cherries – thawed and drained
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 tablespoons kirsch
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon almond extract
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar
Put a rack in middle of oven and preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter a shallow 2 1/2 quart baking dish. Toss cherries with 1 tablespoon sugar and spread evenly in baking dish.
Combine eggs, milk, flour, salt, butter, dirsch, extracts, and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in blender and blend until smooth. Pour batter over cherries.
Bake clafouti until puffed and golden, about 30 minutes.
Cool slightly on a rack (clafouti will sink as it cools) and serve warm, dusted with confectioners’ sugar.
(Can also be made with brandied plums: simmer 1 1/2 pounds of pitted plums, cubed, with 4 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons brandy until juices are bubbly and thick – about 5 minutes. Continue with recipe above. Yum!)
Enjoy! Think of Leonina being inspired by her visit to Gerard Mulot’s pastry shop! (Thank you Dorie Greenspan for the wonderful narrative in your marvelous book, “Paris Sweets – Great Desserts from the City’s Best Pastry Shops.”)
